Manicure and gel polish story

Thousands of years ago, individuals began adorning their nails not solely for aesthetic reasons, but also to signify social class distinctions. The earliest known instance of colored nails dates back to 3200 B.C., when Babylonian men colored their nails with kohl before entering battle. By 3000 B.C., the Chinese and Egyptians employed ingredients such as beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, natural gums, and flowers to create nail colors. Around 600 B.C., the lower class in China faced severe penalties, even death, for wearing nail polish, while the upper echelons preferred metallic shades of gold and silver. The use of henna in ancient Egypt, as demonstrated by mummified pharaohs, also contributed to nail decoration. The practice of using henna might have originated in India during the Bronze Age before being further refined by the Chinese to offer a limited range of colors.

During the 20th century, when the automobile industry utilized variously colored pigments suspended in solvent-based coatings, traditional nail polish underwent an evolution. This evolution led to the development of nail polishes that required an hour or more to dry and were prone to chipping after a short period. We will refer to these formulations as "traditional nail polish," which comprised:

- Nitrocellulose, a film-forming polymer from the gun cotton family.
- Volatile organic solvents like butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, and toluene. Most companies have now eliminated toluene from their products.
- Plasticizers, such as tributyl citrate, camphor, DBP, and TPHP, to prevent brittleness in the film-forming substance. Most companies have replaced the last three.
- Resins for modifying nitrocellulose properties, such as tosylamide/formaldehyde and tosylamide/epoxy resins.
- Pigments approved by the U.S. FDA only if they are FDC-certified.
- Common thickening agents, including modified clays like stearalkonium hectorite and stearalkonium bentonite, to keep pigments suspended.
- Ultraviolet (UV) stabilizers, such as benzophenone-1, to delay color fading when exposed to sunlight.

In the present day, modern nail professionals typically apply traditional nail polish over a base coat and finish with a top coat. The base coat enhances polish adhesion to the nail surface, preventing pigments from staining natural nails. The top coat adds a glossier finish and resistance to abrasion.

Before the 1960s, traditional nail polishes were exclusively applied directly to bare nails. Conventions dictated that manicures and pedicures were intended for natural nails. Although women appreciated the availability of diverse colors with imaginative names, they yearned for instantly longer nails and fast-drying, long-lasting polish on natural nails.

These aspirations were fulfilled through technological advancements. It all started in 1954, when Dr. Fred Slack, a dentist, mended his broken fingernail using dental materials. His innovation eventually led to the development of artificial nails or acrylic nail enhancements. These enhancements provided instant nail length and addressed the premature chipping issues of traditional nail polish by offering a uniform acrylic surface that facilitated predictable adhesion.

In 1982, UV lamps were introduced to nail services alongside hard gels developed by James Giuliano. These high-viscosity liquid formulations are brushed onto natural nails from jars and harden when exposed to UV light. Termed "hard gels" due to their abrasion resistance, they can only be removed by filing after curing.

In 1990, I invented the first UV top coat, designed to effectively dry freshly applied traditional nail polish when air-dried for three minutes and then exposed to UV light for three to four minutes.

Traditional nail polish remained the sole means of adding color to acrylic, gel, and natural nails until the 21st century.

The first long-wear polish emerged in 2007. These products resemble traditional nail polish but do not require curing. They wear like gel polish and can be removed using regular nail polish removers. The non-yellowing property of long-wear polish stands out due to the absence of nitrocellulose. Unlike traditional polish, which may take over an hour to dry, long-wear polish dries fully in just five minutes and offers seven-to-fourteen days of chip-free wear, similar to gel polish.

Other contemporary innovations introduced colored acrylics and UV gel polishes in 2009, followed by Shellac™ in 2010. UV gel polishes, supplied in bottles with brushes, combine modified UV hard gel and traditional polish into one formulation, creating a colored gel that can be removed by filing or soaking in pure acetone. Hybrids introduced in 2013 cure in sunlight and have a higher polish-to-gel component ratio, making them easier to remove than gel polishes.

Modern innovations encompass dip systems, which, like acrylics, utilize two-component liquid and powder systems. These systems share removal methods but differ in curing chemistries. Additionally, press-on nails and polish strips were introduced as solvent-free and rapid-drying alternatives.

All the aforementioned products are applied to natural nails, revealing the nail surface upon removal. They vary in terms of permanence and attachment to the natural nail.

What were the driving factors behind these significant innovations in the nail polish industry?

- Convenience
- Time efficiency
- Long-lasting results
- Focus on well-being
- Currently, trending innovations include "manicure robots" as a response to the shortage of professional nail technicians. Of course, no machine can replicate the passion, vision, or talents of human innovators and artists. Those who have shaped this illustrious history over centuries will pass on their legacy for generations to come. Our future shines brightly.

Detailed chronology can be found at beautytrainingstudio.co.uk/history-of-nails.